The Best of the Basques ; a Hidden World Is Uncovered

Summary


TRANCE-LIKE they appeared over the brow of the mountain, like a fancy-dress clad military unit going to war.

As their steps neared, the dirge-like rumble of copper bells, strapped to their backs, grew louder, sending a Mexican wave of excitement down the lane to where the villagers were huddled against the rain.

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Extract


The Best of the Basques ; a Hidden World Is Uncovered

"They're here, they're coming," yelped Marion, jumping up and down on her five-yearold feet and pulling at her mother's sleeve. She was one of the many locals in the Basque Spanish Pyrenean hamlet of Ameztia, itching to see the annual carnival figures, the Joaldunak (bell ringers), parade past villagers' homes.

With Marion's shrieks of excitement, people gobbled down last mouthfuls of pinxos (snacks), grabbed their glasses of tinto (red wine) and hurriedly headed for the best vantage points.

I followed on, caught up in the flurry of action, not knowing what to expect when the Joaldunak turned the bend in the lane.

Everyone stopped, then stood or crouched, silently agog.

Suddenly the Joaldunak were beside us, close enough to touch. The rhythmic throb ...

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